The AR-Rift was originally built by Will Steptoe. It worked with the Oculus DK1.
The AR-Rift 2 is an update for Oculus CV1. The AR-Rift 2 frame is designed to have smaller frames than the AR-Rift because the Oculus CV1 has LEDs under the fabric. It is also easier to adjust mechanically through the use of thumb nuts to adjust the rotation of the cameras.
To construct this system you will need the following
- 3D printed parts. See Thingiverse page for the 3D models required. You will end up six parts. We printed them in PLA on an Ultimaker 2.
- M3 screws and nuts. Approximately 14 25mm screws and 8 nuts. We used button head screws, but this isn’t important. Check your screw heads fit in the recesses in the 3D parts.
- Six short strings.
- Six M3 knurled thumb nuts. We bought these (type M3 Thin), but anything similar will do.
- Two customised Logitech C310 cameras, see here.
- Some rubber pads to stop the frames slipping on the CV1. We used 3M Silicon Rubber Feet, 4mm high by 17mm diameter.
The 3D printed parts are labelled camera holder, adjustment frame and bracing strip. The logitech camera should clip snugly into the camera holder. The camera holder attached to the adjustment frame at three points, push the M3 screw from the back of the adjustment frame, through a spring, and put the thumb nut on the front.
Then attach the two sets together using the bracing strips at the top an bottom. We used the 3D printed strips. It may make sense to use something stronger, such as a wood or metal strip (PLA is quite flexible). The rubber pads are placed on the inside of the vertical uprights of the adjustment frame. They stop the frame slipping off the CV1. You may need to experiment with different pads.
You can tidy up the cables using some small printed handles on the outside of the uprights on the adjustment frame.