The AR-Rift was orig­i­nal­ly built by Will Step­toe. It worked with the Ocu­lus DK1.

AR-Rift 2


See our poster at IEEE Vir­tu­al Real­i­ty 2017.



The AR-Rift 2 is an update for Ocu­lus CV1. The AR-Rift 2 frame is designed to have small­er frames than the AR-Rift because the Ocu­lus CV1 has LEDs under the fab­ric. It is also eas­i­er to adjust mechan­i­cal­ly through the use of thumb nuts to adjust the rota­tion of the cameras.

To con­struct this sys­tem you will need the following

  1. 3D print­ed parts. See Thin­gi­verse page for the 3D mod­els required. You will end up six parts. We print­ed them in PLA on an Ulti­mak­er 2.
  2. M3 screws and nuts. Approx­i­mate­ly 14 25mm screws and 8 nuts. We used but­ton head screws, but this isn’t impor­tant. Check your screw heads fit in the recess­es in the 3D parts.
  3. Six short strings.
  4. Six M3 knurled thumb nuts. We bought these (type M3 Thin), but any­thing sim­i­lar will do.
  5. Two cus­tomised Log­itech C310 cam­eras, see here.
  6. Some rub­ber pads to stop the frames slip­ping on the CV1. We used 3M Sil­i­con Rub­ber Feet, 4mm high by 17mm diameter.


The 3D print­ed parts are labelled cam­era hold­er, adjust­ment frame and brac­ing strip. The log­itech cam­era should clip snug­ly into the cam­era hold­er. The cam­era hold­er attached to the adjust­ment frame at three points, push the M3 screw from the back of the adjust­ment frame, through a spring, and put the thumb nut on the front.


holder2 holder1


Then attach the two sets togeth­er using the brac­ing strips at the top an bot­tom. We used the 3D print­ed strips. It may make sense to use some­thing stronger, such as a wood or met­al strip (PLA is quite flex­i­ble). The rub­ber pads are placed on the inside of the ver­ti­cal uprights of the adjust­ment frame. They stop the frame slip­ping off the CV1. You may need to exper­i­ment with dif­fer­ent pads.

You can tidy up the cables using some small print­ed han­dles on the out­side of the uprights on the adjust­ment frame.