The AR-Rift was ori­gin­ally built by Will Step­toe. It worked with the Oculus DK1.

AR-Rift 2


See our poster at IEEE Vir­tu­al Real­ity 2017.



The AR-Rift 2 is an update for Oculus CV1. The AR-Rift 2 frame is designed to have smal­ler frames than the AR-Rift because the Oculus CV1 has LEDs under the fab­ric. It is also easi­er to adjust mech­an­ic­ally through the use of thumb nuts to adjust the rota­tion of the cam­er­as.

To con­struct this sys­tem you will need the fol­low­ing

  1. 3D prin­ted parts. See Thingi­verse page for the 3D mod­els required. You will end up six parts. We prin­ted them in PLA on an Ulti­maker 2.
  2. M3 screws and nuts. Approx­im­ately 14 25mm screws and 8 nuts. We used but­ton head screws, but this isn’t import­ant. Check your screw heads fit in the recesses in the 3D parts.
  3. Six short strings.
  4. Six M3 knurled thumb nuts. We bought these (type M3 Thin), but any­thing sim­il­ar will do.
  5. Two cus­tom­ised Logit­ech C310 cam­er­as, see here.
  6. Some rub­ber pads to stop the frames slip­ping on the CV1. We used 3M Sil­ic­on Rub­ber Feet, 4mm high by 17mm dia­met­er.


The 3D prin­ted parts are labelled cam­era hold­er, adjust­ment frame and bra­cing strip. The logit­ech cam­era should clip snugly into the cam­era hold­er. The cam­era hold­er attached to the adjust­ment frame at three points, push the M3 screw from the back of the adjust­ment frame, through a spring, and put the thumb nut on the front.


holder2 holder1


Then attach the two sets togeth­er using the bra­cing strips at the top an bot­tom. We used the 3D prin­ted strips. It may make sense to use some­thing stronger, such as a wood or met­al strip (PLA is quite flex­ible). The rub­ber pads are placed on the inside of the ver­tic­al uprights of the adjust­ment frame. They stop the frame slip­ping off the CV1. You may need to exper­i­ment with dif­fer­ent pads.

You can tidy up the cables using some small prin­ted handles on the out­side of the uprights on the adjust­ment frame.